Article Highlights:

  • Aconcagua’s climbing season runs from mid-November to early March, offering access but no guarantees against extreme cold and wind.
  • December and January are Aconcagua’s busiest months, with higher permit and rescue costs and increased crowding.
  • Mount Everest’s winter season in December and January is among the most dangerous pursuits in mountaineering, with temperatures near –40°C and hurricane-force winds.
  • Winter Everest ascents are extremely rare, demanding complete self-reliance due to limited rescue and helicopter access.
  • Global Rescue emphasizes preparation, acclimatization and decision-making over reliance on rescue in both environments.

 

 

For mountaineers drawn to the Seven Summits and the outer limits of human endurance, timing is not a logistical detail. It is destiny. Few mountains illustrate this more clearly than Aconcagua in Argentina and Mount Everest in Nepal. One offers a defined but unforgiving summer climbing season between November and March. The other presents a brutally short and rarely successful winter climbing window in December and January. Together, they represent two very different expressions of high-altitude ambition, each demanding respect, preparation and disciplined decision-making.

 

Aconcagua: The Southern Hemisphere’s High-Altitude Proving Ground

At 22,841 feet/6,961 meters, Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere and a cornerstone objective for mountaineers pursuing the Seven Summits. While technically non-technical on its normal routes, it is anything but easy. Altitude, exposure and weather make Aconcagua a serious undertaking, particularly for climbers using it as preparation for future 8,000-meter objectives.

The Aconcagua climbing season runs from roughly mid-November through early March, corresponding with the austral summer. During this period, Aconcagua Provincial Park is fully staffed, mule services operate and rescue and medical infrastructure is in place. Outside this window, access is restricted and risks increase dramatically.

Ed Viesturs, legendary mountaineer and member of the Global Rescue Mountain Advisory Council, emphasizes that timing does not soften the mountain’s character. “The climbing season for Aconcagua is just starting and conditions are generally dry this time of year on the mountain, but one should always be prepared for snowstorms and high winds,” Viesturs notes. “It’s going to be quite busy as usual, as climbers look to complete their Seven Summits and to also gain altitude experience for future trips to 8,000-meter peaks.”

 

Trekking, Logistics and Altitude Discipline

Aconcagua attracts a wide spectrum of climbers, from experienced mountaineers to trekkers transitioning into high-altitude climbing. The normal routes involve long carries, extended exposure above 18,000 feet and multiple nights at high camps. Acclimatization is not a suggestion. It is a survival requirement.

According to wilderness and altitude sickness expert, Dr. Eric Johnson, Global Rescue associate medical director and past president of the Wilderness Medical Society, when climbing a nearly 23,000 foot/7000-meter peak, climbers should understand the environment and associated risks like altitude, cold effects and sun/UV exposure. “They should monitor themselves for red flag symptoms like developing high altitude sickness, shortness of breath at rest, decreased appetite with nausea or numbing extremities to prevent AMS, HAPE, frostbite and snow blindness,” he said.

“As part of the Aconcagua climbing permit, all climbers must present at the Extreme Medicine medical tents at the Plaza de Mulas and Plaza Argentina for assessment of their current medical condition, typical vital signs including pulse, blood pressure, oxygen sats and medications,” Johnson said. “The physicians will typically answer questions and give advice regarding the ascent profile and route,” he added.

Global Rescue routinely emphasizes that rescue should be treated as a contingency, not a strategy. During the primary season, medical and rescue teams are deployed, but conditions and regulations often limit air support. As the season winds down in February and March, services thin out, winds intensify and the margin for error narrows significantly.

 

Weather, Wind and the Illusion of Simplicity

Despite its reputation as a “walk-up,” Aconcagua routinely produces winds exceeding 60 mph and temperatures that can plunge below –30°C. Sudden storms can trap climbers at high camps, while the dry conditions increase dehydration risks and complicate acclimatization. Many evacuations on Aconcagua are not due to dramatic falls but to altitude illness, exhaustion and exposure.

December and January represent the high season, bringing the most stable weather on average but also the highest crowd density and permit costs. According to David Koo, director of medical operations at Global Rescue, the financial and logistical stakes are rising. “Aconcagua season is underway. Fees have gone up for Aconcagua this year. Ascent permits now cost between $1,170 USD to $2,000 USD depending on your climbing route, if you are on an assisted or unassisted climb. Rescue costs have gone up as well.”

These increases underscore a broader reality. Specifically, climbers must plan for self-sufficiency and conservative turnaround decisions.

 

Mount Everest in Winter: Pure Mountaineering, No Illusions

If Aconcagua tests patience and discipline, Mount Everest in winter tests the outer boundaries of human capability. Standing at 29,032 feet/8,848 meters, Mount Everest is climbed by hundreds each spring. In winter, it’s climbed by very few.

The official winter climbing season runs from late December through February, with most serious attempts focused on December and January. During this period, the jet stream sits directly atop the mountain, unleashing sustained winds over 100 mph and driving temperatures down to –40°C and below. Wind chill pushes effective temperatures into a range where exposed skin freezes in minutes and equipment failures become life-threatening.

Unlike spring, there is no predictable summit window. A team may wait weeks for a brief lull that never comes. If an opportunity does appear, it may last less than a day, requiring immediate and decisive action.

 

The Rarity and the Risk

Fewer than one percent of all Mount Everest summits occur in winter. Success rates are extraordinarily low and each ascent is considered a landmark achievement in modern mountaineering. The mountain is stripped of crowds, fixed infrastructure and commercial support. This is expedition-style climbing in its purest form.

Helicopter rescues, common at Everest Base Camp and Camp II in spring, are extremely challenging in winter due to wind, cold and visibility. Nepal’s evolving flight regulations further constrain access. As a result, winter climbers must assume that external rescue may not be available at all.

Global Rescue advisors are explicit about this reality. Winter Everest is a self-reliant environment where training, acclimatization and judgment are the only reliable safety systems. Climbers face heightened risks of HAPE, HACE, severe frostbite and trauma, with limited daylight and relentless cold eroding recovery and decision-making.

 

Seasonal Contrast: Everest Spring Versus Winter

Spring climbing on Mount Everest, typically April through May, offers relatively warmer temperatures, a predictable jet stream shift and a one- to two-week summit window. It also brings crowding, fixed ropes, Sherpa support and accessible rescue services.

Winter offers none of that. There is no crowding, but there is also no margin for error. Every rope must be fixed by the team. Every camp must be defended against storms. Every decision carries amplified consequences.

As Viesturs and other veteran mountaineers have long argued, a climb is not complete until the climber returns safely. In winter, that philosophy is not idealistic. It is essential.

 

Trekking and Winter Conditions in Nepal

Nepal sees significantly fewer trekkers and climbers during winter due to shorter days and harsher weather. While some alpinists seek these conditions for greater challenge, success rates remain low. Many expeditions retreat without ever attempting a summit push. Survival, not success, becomes the metric.

This pursuit appeals to a narrow group of elite mountaineers driven by mastery rather than recognition. Winter Everest is not about records or speed. It is about enduring what most choose to avoid.

 

Increasing Winter Trekking and the Consequences of Underpreparedness

While winter conditions on Mount Everest and across Nepal traditionally deter most climbers and trekkers, recent years have shown a notable shift in behavior. According to Dan Stretch, senior manager of medical operations at Global Rescue, there has been an observable increase in people choosing to trek during the winter period despite shorter days, colder temperatures and more volatile weather.

“In recent years there appears to be an increase in people choosing to trek during this period,” Stretch said. However, this growing interest has been accompanied by a troubling pattern of preventable emergencies. Stretch noted that the most common issues Global Rescue encounters among winter climbers and trekkers stem from “aggressive ascent itineraries, failure to recognize or act on the early signs of altitude sickness while continuing to ascend.”

These issues are magnified in winter, when the body’s ability to acclimatize and recover is compromised by extreme cold and sustained wind exposure. Symptoms of altitude illness can escalate more quickly, while evacuation options become limited or entirely unavailable due to weather constraints.

Stretch also pointed to recent winter snowstorms as a revealing stress test for preparedness in the region. Many climbing and trekking groups, he said, were exposed as being underprepared, citing “poor cold weather equipment choices and limited communication backups.” The consequences were significant. “The result limited groups’ ability to shelter in place, or seek assistance when conditions deteriorated,” he explained.

In winter environments where helicopter support may be grounded and rescue timelines extended, these shortcomings can quickly become life-threatening. Adequate insulation, redundant communications and conservative ascent planning are not optional during Nepal’s winter season; they are fundamental requirements. As more trekkers and climbers push into the Himalayas during colder months, Global Rescue emphasizes that winter conditions demand a higher standard of preparation, discipline and self-reliance than many anticipate.

 

The Global Rescue Connection

From Aconcagua’s crowded high camps to Mount Everest’s empty, wind-scoured ridges in winter, the realities of high-altitude climbing are unforgiving. Field rescue, medical evacuation and advisory support can be lifesaving, but they are never guaranteed, especially in extreme seasons and environments.

A Global Rescue with the High-Altitude Evacuation Package membership provides mountaineers and trekkers with access to field rescue, medical evacuation, altitude-aware medical advisory services and crisis response coordination in some of the world’s most remote regions. On mountains where helicopters may not fly and conditions can change in minutes, expert medical guidance and rescue coordination become critical layers of risk management.

Veteran climbers, including Ed Viesturs, consistently remind the mountaineering community that preparation is the first line of defense. Rescue exists to support good decisions, not replace them. Whether pursuing a Seven Summits objective on Aconcagua or confronting the raw severity of Mount Everest in winter, climbers who respect the mountain, understand the season and prepare for self-reliance give themselves the best chance to return safely.

In the end, the true measure of a mountaineer is not the summit reached, but the judgment shown along the way and the ability to come home under their own power.